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jeudi 6 février 2014

The Fineness And Softness Of Vicuna Fiber

By Jayne Rutledge


Vicuna fiber is the rarest, most expensive natural fiber in the world. Vicunas look like their cousins, the llamas, but they are the smallest members of the camelid family. They live in the high, freezing altitudes of the Andes. These animals were considered sacred by the Incas and only members of royalty were allowed to wear the precious cloth woven from their fleece. This fleece is not only very soft and fine but it has remarkable insulating properties and resilience too.

While the Incas reigned, the vicunas roamed the Andes in large numbers. Unfortunately, subsequent civilizations, from the time of the Spanish conquistadors, slaughtered them for their precious fleece. By 1966 they were nearly extinct and drastic measures needed to be taken. Governments stepped in and thanks to conservation efforts, careful management and strict anti-poaching efforts by various parties, numbers have increased once again.

In 1994, three companies were selected to join a consortium formed by the Peruvian government. They had the right to process and export fabrics and finished products made from the fibers. The strategy of these companies has been to establish reserves where these animals are protected, bred and sheared. They are committed to keeping the quality and increasing the quantities available for export.

The coats of vicunas are not only unusually soft and light but very warm at the same time. This warmth and resilience is due to the extreme conditions in which the animals live. The fleece is much, much finer than a human hair and even finer than cashmere. It is the neck and the back that are sheared for the fleece.

The fleece consists of two layers. The underneath layer is formed from densely packed fibers with tiny scales that lock together forming pockets filled with air for insulation. The outer layer is silky and long, varying in shade from dark fawn and golden brown to the color of wheat.

The chacu was a ceremony used by the Incas for rounding up these animals for shearing before releasing them into the wild again. Traditional roundups are still conducted today, although they are now strictly monitored by government. The locals slowly encircle the animals, eventually taking them into tents where they are sheared and then released. The Peruvian government uses a system of labeling to identify garments that are created from fibers obtained through a government sanctioned chacu. The profits from sales return to the locals.

Another reason why these fibers are scarce is that an adult can only be sheared every two years. Added to this is the fact that one adult only provides about 120 grams, not enough to make even a scarf. In order to make a sweater, the fleece from about six animals is required.

The qualities of vicuna fiber make it highly desirable. It is not only extremely soft, fine and warm but also extremely resilient due to the conditions in which vicunas live. As soft as a cloud it conforms to the shape of the body, reacting to its movements. No wonder demand is growing worldwide as more and more individuals are becoming aware of its extraordinary qualities.




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